That's a paltry $17,000 US with the current exchange rate.
And now I'll paste here the reply that I've given to the inquiries. I believe it will answer any questions that I'm sure you may have regarding the current condition of Tallowah and the low asking price. It's a bit of a read, but I can't pity you- I Todd it all on my silly phone!
I am currently away from home on a commercial fishing boat. I will be back in Tofino by Nov 3 at the latest. It was only since I've been on board here that I decided to list Tallowah. My family and I live aboard a boat tied alongside Tallowah and she has been used mainly as a storage facility for us for the past 2 years. Her interior is a bit of a disaster zone and I'm not very comfortable having her shown until I get a chance to give her a tidy up and a scrub down. Anybody who is by chance viewing her before I return will have to have xray vision to see through the clutter.
Following are two of my previous replies to inquiries. I think that they explain get condition well and will help those who are wondering why a Cape George 36 is on the market at this very reasonable price.
The photos in the ad are from 2011. Since then, the varnish work has deteriorated to the point of needing a re-do and the boom has been removed, extended for a new main sail that was given to me and has not been re-rigged.
I would not recommend that you buy her unseen. I don't know how handy your cousin is or what his expectations would be. I have owned her since 2009 and have completed a lot of projects that addressed minor rot issues and have also created a nice aft cabin space as well as pulled and overhauled the diesel engine. As you can see, the engine space is immaculate and the Nissan is in excelled running order. I have painted cabin sides and cabin top since these pictures and that paint is still in great condition. I have re-bed all deck fittings and I have removed the gumwood caprails, glassed over the bulwarks and re-bed and fastened the caprail with 3M5200.
There is still critical work to be done in order to get the most enjoyment from her, although she can be motored around now with no issues. She cruises at 6-7 knots under power with the 86 hp Nissan under minimal load. Immediate work to be completed, in my opinion, would be to refinish the mast, re-rig the boom (which includes having a sail maker modify the slides on the full batten main sail that was given to me and is in great condition), configure a sheeting system for the main and the staysail, paint non-skid on the decks and refinish or paint out the existing varnish (pilot house and aft cabin skylight). As posted in the ad, the interior is built, with ample room for additional features if desired, but is not finished to yacht standards.
The pictures in my ad represent her in great form, but what you cannot see is that she is unapologetically simple in every aspect. To me, that was part of her charm when I purchased her and I have never been disappointed with her characteristics at sea, under sail, under power...Even when we towed her sistership from Lake Union to Cortes Island, towed a 46' sloop from Nanaimo to Ladner or deck loaded 1500 lineal feet of 2x12 old growth fir from Saltspring Island to Nanaimo. She didn't even notice.
Those are the virtues in a boat that strike my fancy, rather than the exquisite yacht finishes and modern rigs - the suitable buyer of Tallowah will have to appreciate these same things in order to recognize that the $22,000 price tag is first of all a bargain and second, must know that they will not find any boat on the market any where near this price, that is even close to the boat that Tallowah is.
The one who buys my boat will need another $10,000, skills and time to get all her systems and finishes to a finished standard, or another $20,000 to hand her over to a fair shipright to do the work. Or...be happy as I was making her work and having fun as she is and tackle the projects that frustrate you the most along the way. Cape George's are a special boat for many reasons and Tallowah herself, is unique amongst the various owner finished versions out there.
The next closest priced Cape George 36 currently on the market that I could find is $45,000 USD and is beautiful, but unfinished with no rig. After that, prices vary all the way up to $200,000 plus. Do some research on the history, the design and other owners reports and you will gain more insight as to what you'd be getting in to.
Thank you for your interest. I hope that my ad did not mislead in any way, but I'm positive that you've recognized the beauty in her.
All the best,
250 266 0683
And then here is another reply to a query about more details regarding her overall condition.
There is no holding tank and head intake throughull needs replacing.
There is no heater. There is a 3 burner/oven Force 10 marine stove. Installed 2010 and used for one summer. Sniffer, solenoid installed.
6'2 headroom throughout.
Sole varies. Aft cabin is currently epoxy sealed 3/4 ply. Approximately 4 square feet with a removable section down the centerline to access wedge shaped diesel tank which is underneath the shaft. There are integral water tanks built into bunks down either side...tops of tanks fabricated but not yet secured. Inner hull has listings glassed to it with the thought of a cedar ceiling and insulation. Access to aft cabin through starboard steps from the pilothouse. Steps are new...½"ply with 1¾" wide white oak fastened to. Steps are removable to allow clear access to exhaust elbow and shaft coupler.
Pilothouse sole also new. ¾ ply with same white oak finish. Hinged panel runs length of port side allowing access to batteries (new September 2014). Center hatches hinged at outboard edges open to give exceptional engine and accessories access. Starboard side of pilothouse sole has same plywood but no oak yet as I had planned for additional hatches for storage and likely a second diesel tank. Hydraulic helm functioning well on stbd side of dash. Older but accurate depth sounder and radar mounted on dash forward of helm. No helm seat yet...pilothouse is an open space. It is well constructed. The sliding hatch for the companionway has a leak but is solid mahogany plank and no rot.
Forward port side of pilothouse...two steps down to main salon. I have built a new water tank that sits on centerline on top of the internal lead ballast. Tank is plywood and epoxy in new condition and is removable. I have cut one piece of ¾ ply to go over tank, but have not sealed or installed it. Currently walking on sole framing and bilge stringers throughout main salon. Galley counter with lockers underneath built by first owner and finished with oak runs along port side, terminating at the stove, which has a small counter top continuing forward of it to the main bulkhead. Sink installed and simple lockers with no doors outboard of the counter (underneath deck). Starboard side of salon is full length settee...a narrow berth if needed. Storage underneath, behind back rest and also under starboard deck. There is no table. Room for custom work in salon for sure. Two ugly overhead lights fastened to deckhead. Simple. Port lights along cabinsides are bronze, open and do not leak. Mast is keel stepped 12" aft of main bulkhead. Could build table off of it.
Step through main bulkhead to the port side of mast. Small section of oak over ply sole that is completely removable...Could build integral holding tank here. Head is to starboard. Toilet is Wilcox Crittenden (sp?) And I have rebuilt it with readily available parts and has seen one summer of use. It sits on a small plywood base. Rest of sole in head is unfinished but sealed plywood. Has a drain but I don't believe a shower has ever been installed. No sink. Lockers with yellow cedar doors along outboard side. Portlight. Toilet intake valve stuck open. Head has a door that when swung open, closes the main salon off at bulkhead. On the port side of head passageway, I have built a nice unfinished mahogany countertop with yellow cedar locker framed in underneath, no doors. Intent was to make this area the vanity...Sink, mirror...things that girls like (I have three of them in my life).
Step forward into standard V berth layout. Plywood berth with removable section to allow for more room to stand up. Lots of storage under berth. Mahogany witxi plexiglass hatch overhead leaks a little bit and needs attention. Has had dinghy stored overtop and has been dry. Yellow cedar ceiling with no insulation behind. Chain locker forward. Chain locker has never been used because she originally had a fisherman style drum windlass on deck. When I built the new bow sprit, I installed a vertical windlass with chain gypsy and capstan. Hydraulic lines run from PTO but are not yet plumbed to windlass which hangs down from deckhead just aft of chainlocker partition. You would need to install some sort of through deck valve fitting to bring control of windlass on deck.
The hull is not insulated nor painted except in a couple areas I have done inside of lockers. Retro fitting insulation would be a relatively easy task due to the simplicity of the layout.
The engine and engine room space is exceptionally clean and is easy to access every single component...a very rare treat. All mechanical systems were overhauled and components replaced where I felt it was prudent. New fuel lines, battery cables, raw water strainer, engine mounts, forward engine bed, main seal, oil pan seal, secondary fuel filter, exhaust mixing elbow, water muffler, shaft coupler and I added a Walker Airsep to the system. With 86hp on her belly, Tallowah cruises nicely with out over working the engine.
Besides the companionway hatch and forward hatch, the only water incursion I've noticed is through the fasteners in the gumwood rub rails. These need to be removed, rebed and refastened.
Sailing configuration needs improvement. We've always sailed her old school lashing blocks to the rails where needed. One could work out a better way. Jib sheet winches are installed and are in good working order. A track with snatch blocks could be installed on the heavy gumwood railcap for jib/genoa sheeting. The staysail originally was self tacking on a boom and a pair of blocks fastened to the cabin top. The boom has been done away with as it was clunky and took up valuable foredeck space. I have not since rigged the staysail with proper sheeting running aft. I actually removed the inner stay and did away with that sail for the cruising I was doing with her. It made tacking the big jib a lot easier. Inner stay is back in place now. The mainsail that came with the boat when I purchased her was not the greatest but it is the one you see in the pictures from the ad and it worked fine for us. A few years ago a good friend have me a spare main from his 42' sloop. It is virtually unused, ¾ batten and heavily constructed with two (maybe three?) reef points. This came with barrel slides and was 10" too long at the foot. Since it was such a nice sail, I opted to extend the boom to make it work. I used West System epoxy and made a 16:1 birds beak(mouth?lol) scarph joint. I shaped it in and have 8 coats of varnish on the boom. That is as far as it got. I have the box of fittings that came off of it, including the track...which is 10"too short for the new sail. The sail will have to have the barrel slides on both the foot and the hoist replaced with the right ones for the track on mast and boom. I had a sheeting system fabricated for the leading edge of the aft cabintop that worked well, but made me nervous due to proximity of sheet blocks to the skylight. I would reimagine the sheeting system to either boom end sheeting aft of aft cabin or run it forward then down to blocks and run out aft to cockpit area along pilot house cabin top. End of boom sheeting would be more simple.
The mast is a traditional box construction reinforced with solid blocking at step, partners, spreaders, back stay fittings and tip. It is Sitka spruce and has always had a Cetol finish. It is a very well built, solid mast but it has seen no maintenance in 4 years. I have been up it regularly though and can not find any rot beginning. The darn masthead light is out and I'm not brave enough to stand up in the bosuns chair to get at it! I fashioned a new set of spruce spreaders 4 years ago. There is no mast boot currently and has an ugly poly/tucktape boot that makes me cringe when I look at it. All shrouds and stays are I believe 3/8 stainless and are all hand spliced at the ends. Turnbuckles are massive galvanized steel. Chainplates are external 3/8x2½" SS bolted through the hull with ½...maybe 5/8 SS bolts. Are nuts are accessible inside. Twin backstays. This rig is extremely durable and has never been stressed. I laminated three pieces of spruce two years ago and fashioned a new bowsprit. It is installed and the varnish is still in good condition albeit due for more. I have not had an anchor roller fit to it yet, nor have I bored through the deck for the chain locker feed. Windlass is installed at heel of the sprit.
Cabin tops, sides and inner bulwark have all been recently painted and paint extends on to deck to make a nice border/water way. Decks have no non skid at this point but have been prepped and primed. Cabin tops have non skid completed. Hull was painted over by me 6 years ago. Two coats Interlux Pre-Kote followed by three coats Brightside dusk gray. Zincs have been tended to by a diver. Tallowah hasn't been hauled in three years. She will sit on the grid in Tofino should that be desired.
There are no issues beneath the water. New cutlass bearing in 2010 with very low hours since. Internal lead ballast means no keel bolts...The only way to go. Transom hung rudder means no additional hole in the bottom of your boat, less likelihood of rudder impact and easily removable for inspection/maintenance.
Rail cap, grab rails and rub rails are gumwood. Exceptionally durable and no finish required.
Cockpit aft of aft cabin is more of a troller style well. There is the possibility and the space back there to reconfigure it to a more traditional style...but perfectly functional as is. Self draining with manual bilge pump located within. No tiller other than a stubby emergency tiller that easily attaches to the rudder head. Hydraulic helm pump temporarily installed, although no wheel is included. Eat your wheaties and use the emergency tiller, street from pilothouse or find yourself a small wheel to fit the cockpit helm.
Water capacity approximately 125 gallons
Fuel capacity 60 gallons...currently not enough for extended cruising off the beaten track. We lashed spare diesel jugs on deck. There is ample room in pilothouse to install additional tank beside engine.
New batteries with a very simple wiring schematic...large panel with lots of room for additional circuits.
I don't know what else to say. That was a lot of typing on my phone. I Hope this gives you a better sense of Tallowah and her pros and cons.